From en.wikipedia.org:
[Chinese outfit composed of a top and trousers] {{Infobox Chinese | pic = MET
DP158750.jpg | piccap = A jiaoling youren shanku worn by a civil official,
Western Jin | s = 衫褲 | t = 衫褲 | p = Shānkù | l = Shirt and trousers | lang1 =
English | lang1_content = Samfoo (British English) / Samfu / Aoku | j = saam1
fu3 | phfs = sâm-fu | poj = saⁿ-khò͘ | showflag = | pic2 = Playing a
sanxian.jpg | piccap2 = Illustration of a woman wearing a pianjin shanku from
1800s }}
[ZH] ([t=衫褲]; see terminology) is a generic term which refers to a two-piece
set of attire in [zh], which is typically composed of a [p= yòurèn yī],[Yi is
typically literally translated as "clothing" nowadays; however, in ancient
times, it was used to refer to "upper clothing"; see page Ru for more
details.] a Chinese upper garment which typically overlaps and closes on the
right side which could be called [p= shan], [p= ru], [p= ao], and a pair of
long trousers called [p= ku].<ref name=":0" />[1] As a form of daily attire,
the [zh] was mainly worn by people from lower social status in China, such as
labourers,[2]<ref name=":15" />[page=1] shopkeepers, or retainers from wealthy
households.<ref name=":15" />[page=xviii] The [zh] was originally worn by both
genders.<ref name=":1" /> Up until the mid-20th century, it was popular in
China and outside of China where it was worn by overseas Chinese in countries,
such as Singapore,<ref name=":0" /> Malaysia,<ref name=":2" /> Suriname,[3]
etc. It is still worn in present-day China and can be found in rural
areas.<ref name=":1" /><ref name=":0" />
** Terminology
Shanku is sometimes referred as [p= AOKU],[4][page=87][5] [p=
RUKU],[6][pages=23–26] and also known as SAMFU in English or SAMFOO
(pronunciation: _[/ (ˈsæmfuː) /]_) in British English[7] following its
Cantonese spelling.[8]
The terms [p= DUANDA], [p= DUANHE] or [p= SHUHE] typically refer to the
two-piece set composed of an upper garment which is generally above and below
the hips and knees and a pair of trousers, both made out of coarse cloth.
This was generally worn by people doing manual labour, such as farm work, and
by martial artists.[9]
The generic term [p= KUZHE], also called [p= KUXI], is typically used to refer
to military or riding style attire which is composed of a jacket or coat and
trousers.[10][pages=][11]<ref name=":15" />[page=45] According to the [zh],
the coat, [p=xi]; (sometimes referred to as [zh], typically used as part of
the [zh]), was a [p= xi].[12] A [p=xi] was a [zh] with a [zh] closure
according to the [p= Shuowen Jiezi].[13] The term [p= daxi] also existed, but
they were only long enough to cover the knees, which suggest that the other
forms of [zh] were shorter than knee-length.<ref name=":19" />[pages=23–26]
Although the [zh] attire were oftentimes associated with [zh], some of these
garment items and styles were in fact Chinese innovations.<ref name=":10"
/>[page=319]
*** English definition
In the English language, [zh] is commonly written as _samfoo_ in British
English or _samfu_. According to the Collins English Dictionary, the term
_samfu_ (pronounced: _[/ˈsæmfuː/]_) originated from the combination of the
Chinese (Cantonese) words _sam_ (dress) and _fu_ (trousers).<ref name=":20" />
The Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary and the Concise Oxford English
Dictionary indicate that the term _samfu_ originated in the 1950s from the
Cantonese term SHAAM FOÒ, with _shaam_ meaning 'coat' and _foò_ meaning
'trousers'.[14][15][page=1272] Among English dictionaries, there are
variations in the definition of _samfu_. The _Collins English Dictionary_
defines it as being:<ref name=":20" />
[text="A style of casual dress worn by Chinese women, consisting of a waisted
blouse and trousers".]
The _Oxford Learner's Advanced Dictionary_ defines it as being:<ref name=":21"
/>
[text="A light suit consisting of a jacket with a high collar and loose
trousers, traditional in China".]
The 12th edition of the _Concise Oxford English Dictionary_ defines it as
being:<ref name=":22" />[page=1272]
[text="A suit consisting of high-necked jacket and loose trousers, worn by
Chinese women".]
** Design and construction
The [zh] is a two-piece set of attire, which is composed of a jacket as an
upper garment and a pair of trousers as a lower garment. More precisely, the
[zh] is composed of the [zh] and the trousers generally known as [zh].
The [zh] and the [zh] were typically made of similar fabrics.<ref name=":1" />
However, the two garments were sometimes made separately and did not belong to
the same set of clothing.<ref name=":1" />
*** Upper garment
[Ru (upper garment)]
The [p=shan] or [p=ao] or [p= ru]<ref name=":15" />[page=50] or [p=yi] all
refer to a Chinese upper garment, which typically has a side fastening to the
right, known as [zh].[16]<ref name=":1" />
{{Multiple image | total_width = 400 | image1 = Imperial Encyclopaedia -
Ceremonial Usages - pic478 - 衫.png | image2 = China, 19th century - Han
Woman's Jacket - 1956.306 - Cleveland Museum of Art.jpg | header = Styles of
Chinese upper garment | header_align = center | footer_align = center |
caption1 = Illustration of shan (衫) from the Chinese encyclopedia Gujin Tushu
Jicheng, between 1700 and 1725 AD | caption2 = Han woman's jacket (袄) with a
slanted opening and high collar, 19th century | footer = Jiaoling youren style
(left) vs. pianjin style (right) | caption_align = center }}
Prior to the Qing dynasty, the shape of the collar and closure of the upper
garment were typically [zh], a collar which crosses or overlaps in the front
and closed to the right side similar to the letter _y_ in shape, as the ones
worn in the Ming dynasty and earlier, instead of the [zh]-style, the curved or
slanted overlap closure which appears similar to the letter _s_, which was
commonly worn in the late Qing dynasty.[17] The [zh] could have a mandarin
collar or a high standing collar.<ref name=":4" />
The [zh] could be long-sleeved, short-sleeved,<ref name=":5" /> or
sleeveless<ref name=":4" /> depending on the time period. The sleeves could
be wide or narrow, and the shape of the cuff could vary depending on styles
and time period.<ref name=":11" />
The bodice of the [zh] varied in length depending on the time period, but it
could also be thigh-length.<ref name=":1" />
*** Lower garment
[Ku (trousers)]
The [p=ku], as a general term, was a pair of long trousers which could be
loose or narrow.<ref name=":1" /> There are many types of [zh] with some
having closed rises while others have opened rise.[18] Trousers with close
rises were typically referred as [zh] to differentiate from the [zh] which
typically referred to trousers without rises.
*** Fitting
The [zh] is traditionally loose in terms of fitting.[19] However, due to the
influence of Western fashion, it became more tight fitting in the 1950s and
1960s.<ref name=":5" />
*** Colours
The [zh] was typically dyed in black, blue or grey.<ref name=":1" /> The
waistband of the [zh] was typically made of lighter coloured fabric, such as
blue or white.<ref name=":1" /> However, the colours of the [zh] could vary
depending on ethnic groups.<ref name=":1" />
** History and development
*** Pre-history
In the Neolithic period, the trousers were known as [p= jingyi] and were the
original form of the [zh] without crotches.<ref name=":7" /> The form of the
Neolithic [zh] was different from the trousers worn nowadays as it came in
pairs of legs like shoes.<ref name=":7" /> They were knee-high trousers which
were tied on the calves and only covered the knees and the ankles; thus
allowing its wearer's thighs to be exposed; due to this reason, ancient
Chinese wore [zh], a set of attire consisting of the [zh] and [zh], on top of
their [zh] to cover their lower body.<ref name=":7" /> This form of [zh]
continued to be worn until the early Han dynasty.<ref name=":7" />
*** Shang dynasty
The [zh] can be traced back at least to the Shang dynasty.[20][pages=] Prior
to the introduction of foreigners' clothing, known as [zh], during the Warring
States period, a set of attire known as [p=ruku] was already worn by the
ancient Chinese people. However, the lower garment called [zh] remained in
use to cover the [zh]-style [zh][The term chang in a broad sense can refer to
any to lower garments, including trousers and skirts. When chang is used over
trousers, it typically refers to a skirt; upper garment with chang (skirt)
form a set of attire called yichang . See page ruqun for more details.]<ref
name=":19" />[pages=23–26] as the trousers in this period still lacked a
rise.<ref name=":23" />[pages=] In the Shang dynasty, the slaveholders wore a
[zh] with [zh] and/or [zh].<ref name=":8" />[page=15] The [zh], which was
worn, was similar to a knee-length tunic.<ref name=":23" />[pages=]
*** Zhou dynasty, Spring and Autumn period, and Warring States period
In the [p= Zhou Li], it is recorded that exorcists wore black trousers and red
jackets.[21]
**** Adoption of Hufu
[Hufu] During the Warring States period, King Wuling of Zhao (r. 326–298 BC)
instituted the [p= Hufuqishe] policies which involved the adoption of [zh] to
facilitate horse riding.[22][23]
The nomadic clothes adopted by King Wuling consisted of belts, short upper
garment, and trousers.[24][page=16] The [zh] introduced by King Wuling can be
designated as [p=shangxi xiaku].<ref name=":19" />[pages=23–26] However, the
style of trousers, which was introduced in Central China by King Wuling of
Zhao, had a loose, close rise and differed from the indigenous Chinese [zh];
it is thus a style referred as [p=kun] instead of [zh].<ref name=":7" />
The short garment was a coat was called [p=xi], which appears to have been the
outermost coat of all garment, resembling a robe with short body and loose
sleeves.<ref name=":19" />[pages=23–26] King Wuling was also known for wearing
[zh]-style long trousers and upper garments with narrow sleeves.[25]
***** Influence of Hufu
[Ku (trousers)] Under the influence of the [zh], the [zh]-style [zh] evolved
until the thighs were lengthened to cover the thighs forming a newly improved
[zh]-trousers; it also had a waist enclosure which was added; however, as the
improved [zh]-trousers still had an open rise and rear, which would allowed
for excretion purposes, the [zh] still continued to be worn on top of the
[zh].<ref name=":7" /> Compared to the nomadic [zh] which did not fit in the
traditional norms of the Chinese people, the [zh] was well-accepted by the
Chinese as it was more aligned with the Han Chinese tradition.<ref name=":7"
/>
The trousers with loose rise, [zh], which was adopted from the [zh] policy was
mainly worn by the military troops and servants while the general population
typically continued to wear the [zh]-style [zh] and the newly improved
[zh].<ref name=":7" /> Thus, the nomadic-style [zh] never fully replaced the
[zh] and was only worn by military and by the lower class.<ref name=":7" />
The nomadic-style loose rise [zh] later influenced the formation of other
forms of [zh] trousers, such as [zh] (i.e. trousers with extremely wide legs)
which appeared in the Han dynasty and [zh] (i.e. trousers with tied strings
under the knees).<ref name=":7" /> These forms of [zh]-trousers were Chinese
innovations.<ref name=":7" />
*** Qin dynasty
In Qin dynasty, short clothing became more common and trousers were generally
worn from what can be observed from the unearthed Qin dynasty tomb
figures.<ref name=":14" />
As a general term for trousers, the [zh] was worn with jackets [p=ru], also
known as [p=shangru] along with [p=daru].[26] The trousers were often wide at
the top and narrower at the bottom and could be find with rise.<ref name=":9"
/>
Terracotta warriors, for example, wears a type of long robe which is worn on
top of skirt and trousers.[27] The Qin artisans valued contrasting colours;
for example, the upper garments which were green in colour were often
decorated with red or purple border; this upper garment would often be worn
together with blue, or purple, or red trousers.[28]
[Clear]
*** Han dynasty
{{Multiimage | image1 = Dahuting Eastern Han Tombs Mural - 23 (robe and red
trousers).jpg | image2 = Dahuting Eastern Han Tombs Mural - 24 (shanku).jpg |
total_width = 400 | caption1 = Black _zhijupao_ and red trousers | caption2 =
Banquet attendees wearing _shanku_, Dahuting murals, Eastern Han (1st century
AD) | image3 = Fresco of a Horseman from a Han Dynasty Tomb in Sian,
Shensi.jpg | image4 = DinastíaHan20100102051749SAM 2864.jpg | caption4 = A
guard wearing a _zhijupao_ with trousers, Han tomb figurines. | caption3 =
Horseman wearing _shanku_ consisting of a pair of white trousers with red
upper garment, Han dynasty tomb mural. | perrow = 2 }}
Starting since the Eastern Han dynasty, trousers with rise, [zh], gradually
started to be worn, the [zh] of the Han dynasty gradually replaced the
[zh].[29][30][page=43] While the long robe known as [zh] was mainly worn for
formal occasions in the Han dynasty, men wore a waist-length _ru_ and trousers
in their ordinary days while women wore ruqun.[Authors Feng and Du (2015)
specifies that the jacket worn is ru, which is cut to the waist, in this
context. They however do not elaborate on the precise type of trousers.]<ref
name=":8" />[page=16] Manual labourers tended to be wear even shorter upper
garment and lower garment as due to their convenient use for work.<ref
name=":14" />
In the Han dynasty, the [zh] trousers came in variety of styles, such as [zh]
and [zh], while a derivative of the [zh]-trousers known as [zh] was
developed.<ref name=":7" />
The [zh] was worn with a loose robe (either [zh] or [zh]) in the Han dynasty
by both military and civil officials.<ref name=":7" /> The [zh] were trousers
which were tied with strings under the knees.<ref name=":7" />
The [zh] is a type of [zh] which covered the hips and legs and its rise and
hips regions were closed at the front and multiple strings were used to tie it
at the back of its wearer; it was made for palace maids.<ref name=":7" /> The
[zh] continued to be worn for a long period of time, and was even worn in the
Ming dynasty.<ref name=":7" />
[Clear]
*** Wei, Jin, Northern, and Southern dynasties
In the early medieval period of China (220–589 AD), male and female commoners,
including servants and field labourers, wore a full-sleeved, [zh] long jacket
(which were either waist or knee length) which was tied with a belt.[31]
Common women could either wear skirts or trousers under their jackets.<ref
name=":13" /> Full trousers with slightly tempered cuffs or trousers which
were tied just below the knees were worn under the jacket.<ref name=":13" />
In tombs inventories dating to the early 600s, cases of [p=shanku], [p=xiku],
and [p=kunshan] can be found.<ref name=":10" />[page=325]
The [zh] or [zh] consisted of the _[zh]_ and a [zh], a tight-fitting upper
garment, _[zh]_ _[zh]_, which reached the knee level.<ref name=":7" /> The
[zh] was a popular form of clothing attire and was worn by both genders; it
was worn by both military and civil officials in the Northern and Southern
dynasties.<ref name=":7" />
The [zh] which appeared in the late Northern dynasty, was created by
assimilating non-Han cultures in order to create a new design which reflected
the Han Chinese culture.<ref name=":7" /> The [zh], the style of [zh]-trousers
were bounded at knees and dates back to the Han dynasty,<ref name=":7" />
allowed for greater ease of movement;<ref name=":13" /> they were also worn in
the Western Jin to increase ease of movements when horseback riding or when on
military duty.<ref name=":10" />[pages=] In the Wei, Jin, Northern and
Southern dynasties, the _[zh]_, especially the ones with a wide bottom, became
popular among aristocrats and commoners alike.<ref name=":7" /> While this
style of [zh] was associated with the [zh] worn by foreigners and non-Chinese
minority ethnicities due to the use of felt chords, a textile associated with
foreigners; it was actually not a stylistic invention from the Northern people
and were not a form of nomad clothing.<ref name=":10" />[pages=]<ref name=":7"
/> During this period, the nomadic tribes, which also wore their own
[zh]-styles of [zh], also ended up being influenced by the Han Chinese style
due to the multiculturalism aspect of this period.<ref name=":7" /> The [zh]
which was in the form of the [zh] with tight sleeves originated from the
Northern minorities was also adopted by the Chinese before being localized and
developed Chinese characteristics; the [zh] was slightly longer than the [zh]
worn by the Chinese and had a [zh], round collar.<ref name=":8" />[page=16]
<gallery> File:Three Kingdoms tomb brick3.JPG|Shanku (left) and ruqun (middle
and right), Three Kingdoms period File:魏晉墓磚畫 耕犁圖.jpg|Male commoner wearing a
long knee-length jacket and trousers, Western Jin dynasty (265–316 CE)
File:CMOC Treasures of Ancient China exhibit - figure of a female
warrior.jpg|Xianbei female warrior wearing trousers and upper garment
File:Consort Ban and Emperor Cheng, Northern Wei painted screen.jpg|Servants
wearing top and trousers while aristocrats wear paofu and guiyi, Northern Wei
painting File:Western Wei Pottery Civil Official (9832712915).jpg|alt=|Civil
official in shanku, Western Wei File:Tomb Brick of Wei, Jin, or
Southern-Northern Dynasties (10369785576).jpg|Tomb Brick of Wei, Jin, or
Southern-Northern Dynasties File:Yanju's tomb, dancer left, table between
Yanju and entertainers.jpg|Men wearing shanku. Painting from Yanju's tomb,
also known as Jiuquan Dingjia Gate No. 5 Tomb, 5th century AD. </gallery>
*** Sui to Tang dynasties
In Tang dynasty, the trousers which were worn by men were mainly worn with a
form of [zh] known as [zh].<ref name=":7" /> However, the [zh] which had been
worn in the previous dynasties remained popular until the Sui and Tang
dynasties period.<ref name=":7" />
*** Song to Yuan dynasty
In the Song to the Yuan dynasty, the [zh], trousers with narrow legs, was worn
by the general population during this period.<ref name=":7" />
**** Song dynasty
In Song dynasty, labourers who performed heavy tasks preferred to wear short
jackets and trousers due to its convenience.[32][page=53] In this period, the
[zh] worn by poor people were short length clothing and were made out of
coarse fabric.[33]
<gallery> File:蠶織圖局部5.jpg|A woman (in the middle) wearing a [zh] with an
apron; a Song dynasty painting File:Qingming Festival Detail 14.jpg|Peasant
men wearing [zh], Song dynasty painting File:Qingming Festival Detail
3.jpg|Seller wearing [zh] File:Qingming Festival Detail 13.jpg|A man wearing
[zh] vs men wearing [zh] </gallery>
**** Yuan dynasty
[Fashion in the Yuan dynasty] In Yuan dynasty, some scholars and commoners
wore the terlig, a Mongol-style [zh], which was braided at the waists and had
pleats and narrow-fitting sleeves.<ref name=":12" />[Clear]
*** Ming dynasty
In Ming dynasty, the trousers with open-rise and close-rise were worn by men
and women.<ref name=":7" /> Women in Ming continued to wear trousers under
their skirts.<ref name=":7" /><gallery> File:人物肖像2.jpg|Ming dynasty portrait
of a person wearing white trousers and blue top File:Fisherman Zang
Lu.jpg|Fisherman, Ming dynasty painting </gallery>
**** Appearance of standing collars
In the late Ming dynasty, jackets with high collars started to appear.<ref
name=":15" />[page=] The standup collar were closed with interlocking buttons
made of gold and silver,[34] called [p=zimukou].[35] The appearance of
interlocking buckle promoted the emergence and the popularity of the standup
collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the
foundation of the use of Chinese knot buckles.<ref name=":02" /> In women
garments of the Ming dynasty, the standup collar with gold and silver
interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of
clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the
conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered
and due to the climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average
temperature was low in China).<ref name=":02" />
*** Qing dynasty – 19th century
The high collar jacket continued to be worn in Qing dynasty, but it was not a
common feature until the 20th century.<ref name=":15" />[page=] In the late
Qing, the high collar become more popular and was integrated to the jacket and
robe of the Chinese and the Manchu becoming a regular garment feature instead
of an occasional feature. For the Han Chinese women, the stand-up collar
became a defining feature of their long jacket; this long jacket with high
collar could be worn over their trousers but also over their skirts (i.e.
aoqun). The high collar remained a defining feature of their jacket even in
the first few years of the republic.<ref name=":15" />[page=]
In Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women who wore [zh] without wearing a skirt on
top of their trousers were typically people born from the lower social
class.<ref name=":3" />[pages=] Otherwise, they would wear trousers under
their skirts which is in accordance with the traditions since the Han
dynasty.<ref name=":7" /> In Mesny's Chinese Miscellany written in 1897 by
William Mesny, it was however observed that skirts were worn by Chinese women
over their trousers in some regions of China, but that in most areas, skirts
were only used when women would go out for paying visits.[36][page=371] He
also observed that the wearing of trousers was a national custom for Chinese
women and that trousers were worn in their homes when they would do house
chores; he observed that women were dressed almost like men when working at
home, except that their trousers had trims at the bottom of different coloured
materials.<ref name=":04" />[page=371]
In the 19th century, the _shan_ was long in length and the trousers _ku_ was
wide.<ref name=":1" /> In the late 19th century, men stopped wearing the
_shan_ which closes to the right and started wearing a jacket with a
central-opening which looks similar to the Tangzhuang.<ref name=":1" />
<gallery>
File:男人理髮稱作“剃頭”是從清朝開始的，剃頭顱前的頭髮，腦後留辮子以示歸順清朝。最常見的是剃頭挑子，把全部的剃頭用具都挑在扁擔的兩頭，走街串巷，上門服務
- Sohu.jpg|Qing dynasty men wearing [zh], before 1912 AD
File:大夫正為女病人把脈診病。舊時，男大夫為女性診病，接觸其身體時，手部為最極限之部位。- Sohu.jpg|A woman wearing a
white _shan/ao_ and dark coloured _ku_ File:Playing a pipa.jpg|Woman wearing a
blue ao/shan and pink trousers File:THE LADY'S MAID.jpg|A lady's maid
File:Trousers (China), late 19th century (CH 18562157).jpg|[zh] outfit, late
19th century </gallery>
*** 20th century
In the 20th century, the 19th-century long _shan_ gradually became shorter and
become more fitted.<ref name=":1" /> The neckband of the shan was also
narrow.<ref name=":1" /> Sleeveless and short-sleeved _shanku_ also existed in
the 20th century.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":5" />
In the 1950s, women of lower status and those worked on farms would sometimes
wear _shanku_ which was decorated with floral patterns and checks.<ref
name=":1" /> People living in urban areas started to wear Western clothing
while people in rural areas continued to wear _shanku_.<ref name=":1" /> In
Hong Kong, _shanku_ continued to be worn when people were away from their
workplace.<ref name=":1" /><gallery> File:Woman in traditional Hakka hairstyle
in Toen.jpg|Hakka woman wearing shanku, between 1935 and 1945 File:Old Hakka
women sitting rural Miaoli.jpg|Hakka woman in [zh], 1950 </gallery>During the
Great Leap Forward, the Mao suit became popular. but it was not expected for
children to wear the Mao suit.<ref name=":1" /> While in cities, children
started to wear Western style clothing, the children in the rural areas
continued to wear the traditional _shanku_ which were made of cotton checked
fabrics, stripe fabrics, or other patterned fabrics.<ref name=":1" />
** Ethnic clothing
*** Han Chinese
Both Han Chinese women and men of the labouring classes wore _shanku_.<ref
name=":15" />[page=1] The trousers, which could be found either narrow or
wide, were a form of standard clothing for the Han Chinese.<ref name=":15"
/>[page=1]
**** Hakka
The Hakka people wears _shanku_ as their traditional clothing;[37] both Hakka
men and women wear it.[38] The preferred colours of the Hakka _shanku_ is
typically blue and black.<ref name=":6" />
**** Hoklo
The Hoklo people wears _shanku_ which is composed of fitted-style of _shan_
which has a deeply curved hem and black-coloured trousers _ku_.<ref name=":1"
/> Their _shan_ was characterized by the bands decoration at the sleeves edges
and at the garment opening as well as the collar of the _shan_ which was very
narrow and also consisted of piping rows.<ref name=":1" /> They typically wore
bright colours such as light blue as every day wear while colours such as
purple, deep blue, deep turquoise were reserved for special occasions.<ref
name=":1" />
**** Tanka
The Tanka people also wear _shanku_ which is distinctive in style wherein the
_shan_ and the _ku_ matched in colour; they prefer wearing colours which are
lighter and brighter, such as pale green, pale blue, turquoise, yellow and
pink.<ref name=":1" /> These lighter colours tended to be preferred by younger
women or by newly married women; they were also worn on special occasions.<ref
name=":1" /> On the other hand, darker colours were favoured by older
women.<ref name=":1" />
** Influences and derivatives
*** Vietnam
In the 15th century (from 1407 to 1478), the Vietnamese women adopted Chinese
trousers under the occupation of the Ming dynasty.[39][40] During the 17th and
18th century, Vietnam was divided in two regions with the Nguyen lords ruling
the South. The Nguyen lords ordered that southern men and women had to wear
Chinese-stye trousers and long front-buttoning tunics to differentiate
themselves from the people living in the North. This form of outfit developed
with time over the next century becoming the precursor of the áo dài, the
outfit generally consisted of trousers, loose-fitting shirt with a stand-up
collar and a diagonal right side closure which run from the neck to the
armpit; these features were inspired by the Chinese and the Manchu
clothing..<ref name=":16" />
In the pre-20th century, Vietnamese people of both sexes continue to maintain
old Ming-style of Chinese clothing consisting of a long and loose knee-length
tunics and ankle-length, loose trousers.[41] In the 1920s, the form ensemble
outfit was refitted to become the Vietnamese national dress, the ladies'
[vi].<ref name=":18" />
** See also
- Ru [snd] a type of Chinese upper garment
- Hufu [snd] non-Han Chinese clothing
- Tangzhuang
- Hanfu
- Ruqun
- Hakka people
** Notes
[group=note]
** References
[Reflist]
Category:Chinese traditional clothing Category:Trousers and shorts
Category:Jackets